Some well houses are designed to impress, this isn`t one of them. However, it is situated in a lovely location - a small wooded sanctuary down a bank from the main lane through the village. Three flagstones pave the way to an unassuming building which covers the spring. The structure is fronted by a stone archway and two padlocked wooden doors seal the waters from prying eyes.
Legend has it that St. Nectan, on his journey northwards from Cornwall was attacked and beheaded by bandits. The saint then picked up his severed head and carried it to this spot, thus giving his dedication to both the well and to the nearby church. So here, we have another link between sacred water and the severed head. A number of wells supposedly sprung forth from the earth when the head of a martyr fell to the ground (e.g. St. Winefride's Well, Gwynedd; St. Sidwell's Well, Devon; St. Decuman's Well, Dyfed).
These stories clearly hark back to the Celtic belief that the head possessed certain magical properties. It was able to survive death, sometimes even able to speak after severance. Also, the head, especially the head of a martyr, possessed powers of healing, prophecy, fertility and protection. Even as late as this century, some sacred waters were considered to be most efficacious if drunk from the bowl-shaped cranium of a skull.
Although this is not the most impressive or beautifully located well, it is certainly worth the pilgrimage. North Devon is a magical place to be. The last time i visited this well was on a trip around the coast of Britain, the sun was shining, and time seemed to stand still. Isn't it strange how these places of power can alter our perceptions so?
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O.S.G.R.:
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SX 236 248 (190). |
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