DAY ONE

Friday 16th & Saturday 17th August 1991

Ferry, Roscoff to Auberge de la truite, Locmaria Berrien

Miles Travelled

ODO = 41.5

DST = 41.5

AVS = 05.5

TM = 07.25

MXS = 27

The weather was overcast but warm with rain threatening. We started the holiday by having to sleep in the bar of the ferry (unable to book a cabin) - we however were first aboard by one hour so were able to chose the best positions, unfortunately the night was marred by some very rude French people and some inconsiderate English!!!.

We docked in Roscoff at 0500 (English time) yawn!! It was still too dark to safely cycle(especially with all those GB cars about) so we waited half-an-hour for it to get light.

We had a very nice day across rolling countryside, with one or two big hills, rising up to 250 meters after several hours in the saddle we decided to bed down in Huelgoat, four Hotels in town all complet (FULL). At this point we felt rather depressed having cycled 40 miles, however no choice but to head for next town 14 miles away. We set off down hill through a very pretty gorge, full of tourists we did not stop as all we wanted was to get to a hotel and rest up. After approx. 3 miles arrived at above Auberge which on the discovery that they had a free room lifted our sinking hearts!! End of a very long travelling day, room pleasant in basic French manner, looking forward to a good meal.

The Meal

The restaurant was delightful. The meal was simple but good we both started with Pate de maison - very nice(home-made) followed by young cockerel roasted, we had half each!! Accompanied by haricot verts - for once cooked correctly and saute potatoes, served in a delightful butter sauce. This was followed by the cheese - Sally had two Chris had at least half a dozen different cheeses all very nice and tasty!! For dessert Sally had Breton gateau like a rich Madeira cake nice but would have gone down a lot easier with some Creme Anglais(custard). Chris had mousse du choclat accompanied by a small sliced strawberry and dollop of cream - very very nice mmmmmmm!! The above was accompanied by a passable bottle of Muscadet. All toped off with cafe noir, Calvados for you know who, and Armangnac pour moi. We then retired to bed tired and happy.

DAY TWO

Sunday 18th August 1991

Auberge de la truite, Locmaria Berrien to Hotel le Brizeux, Quimperle.

Miles Travelled

ODO = 89.2

DST = 47.7

AVS = 7.2

TM = 6.30

MXS = 30

Sunny all day and hot!. Slept very well until 5ish when some sort of horse race went by. Breakfasted at 0800 on road by 0910. Thank God we did not go any further last night since the first thing we encounter was a ghastly hill 3 miles long. Still we went up it like a dream. Sally not moaning (much), Chris's bike developed a dreadful squeak solved by application of lots of oil to back wheel. Next 30 miles spent cycling through extremely pleasant rolling countryside. Hard, Hot, work going over the Mountains Noires. By-passed Gourin on new road, not much fun to cycle as lots of fast cars. Arrived in Scaer at 1315 everything shut slightly fed up!! continued on our way through very pleasant countryside bit hilly beginning to get tired hills becoming a bind, last one was a real bugger!!! still last 5-6 miles was gently downhill to Quimperle. Staying in above hotel only hotel not full or closed!! (perhaps we should have brought a tent) Poky room last one in hotel, beggars can't be choosers. Decided to go out for a meal as hotel is a bit seedy. Found a very nice bar for our end of day largers, which we force down for medical reasons - to re-hydrate! Having walked around the town have decided to try a Pizza.

MEAL

Restaurant Le Rialto - couple of ordinary Pizzas better than English type. Came with Yum Yum spicy oil - boy was it hot, Chris enjoyed it. We finished off evening sitting outside bar mentioned above with Pastis for Chris and larger for Sally.
DAY THREE

Monday 19th August 1991

Hotel le Brizeux, Quimperle to Hotel L'Ostria La Trinte-Sur-Le-Mer.

Miles Travelled

ODO = 126.3

DST = 37.1

AVS = 6.00

TM = 6.15

MXS = 20

Sun all day even hotter than yesterday!! Started day with breakfast, as per normal. Rode out of town up a horrendous hill, after which it was a very pleasant ride along tree lined avenues to Lorient. Caught ferry from Port de Peche to Saint-Louis. The ferry was a wee bit difficult to find Chris had to use his French for directions and we got there with time to spare. Ferry pier was hidden in very smelly old dockyard. Had a very nice trip across harbour to Saint-Louis pleasant old fortified town at estuary mouth where we stopped and had crepes for lunch. Long hot ride in afternoon to Carnac which is full of old stones so much for culture, flatish countryside leaving English type green landscape behind and entering more southerly brownish with lots of pines. Started day feeling really lousy as day wore on, felt better slightly saddle sore hope this will not become a problem!

Arrived in La Trinte and once again had problems finding accommodation (starting to think seriously about buying a tent) - no room at the Inn, eventually found Hotel L'Ostrea 320ff per night O-la-la still beggars can't be choosers are we beginning to abuse this phrase. Go for a promenade looking for somewhere to eat as Hotel too pricey

MEAL

The Hotel Commerce, after initial confusion - due to Chris (lies)!! Sally had the 88ff menu whilst Chris had the 110ff menu (typical) Sally started with Salmon pate - very nice Chris had a small bowl of moules marinere (only 40/50 of them!!) followed by a fish course (which Sally did not have as she was on the cheaper menu) Chris with his normal generosity shared his fish with twisted old Sally. For the next course Sally had Faux-Fillet grille (sirloin steak) Chris had a large leg of duck accompanied by haricot vert and pommes frittes, all washed down with vin de maison a nice blanc de blanc. Finished meal with Sally having a citron sorbet and Chris tucking into the fromage. Went for a promenade digestif, coffee and then to bed
DAY FOUR

Tuesday 20th August 1991

La Trinte-Sur-Le-Mer to Hotel Les Gents d'Or Muzillac.

Miles Travelled

ODO = 161.8

DST = 35.22

AVS = 3.8

TM = 7.0

MXS = 24

Left La Trinte after breakfast at 0915 climbed up to bridge over estuary - not too bad! Over rolling countryside to Locmariaquer, eventually found ferry - large motorised rowing boat! The bikes were secured across the prow of the boat (using the word secure loosely which is how the bikes were secured!!!). We then crossed the Golfe du Morbihan to Port Navalo the boat rocked quite a bit and we both thought the cycling bit of the holiday would end in the briny. Port Navalo was full of tourists so we peddled off as fast as we could towards Sarzeau, all up-hill and hot. Sarzeau was also full of tourists we had an indifferent pizza - very little choice and next town too far away! Roads on this peninsular were very busy and remained so until we turned off onto D20 country side changed back to English-in-time-of-drought-type countryside, good cycling weather warm with breeze, pleasant to get a good long ride in after start-and-stops of beginning of the day. AMBON, Chris wants this in capital letters as this is the first time after numerous attempts over a number of years that he has finally managed to order and get a lemon squash in France. Shortly afterwards arrived in Muzillac had another squash just to confirm it was not a fluke. Looked for hotel outside town in pretty village of Billiers BUT, yes, you have guessed it that hotel was full, so back to Muziallac and as per norm got the last room!! Had our normal couple of beers.

Sally and I both now agree that when and if we do this again we will bring a tent for the following reasons 1) we will not get caught out by full hotels. 2) we will not have to plan to stop and find a hotel, we will be able to stop when we won't to. 3) will save money - we will not be forced into expensive hotels 4) and finally all the campsite's seem to have a pool the hotels do NOT.

The Meal

Sally had langoustine with mayonnaise - no it was fresh hollandaise's sauce! Chris had Oyster pate which was OK. Sally then had Duck, Chris had Guinea Fowl accompanied by pommes frites and a limp green salad. We then had fromage which was so-so, to finish we had a truly dreadful chocolate mousse (it had seen better days!). All-in-all a very mediocre meal.
DAY FIVE

Wednesday 21st August 1991

Muzillac to Hotel Relais du Pont St. Brevin les Pins

Miles Travelled

ODO = 201.1

DST = 40.22

AVS = 6.1

TM = 6.27

MXS = 29

Left Muzillac and cycled up a horrendous hill 7 miles long!! (Sally not at all happy) to Azal. Then we had a very pleasant ride across undulating countryside to Herbignac, getting warmer as we go. From Herbignac we headed for St. Nazair across marshes absolutely horrible cycling very hot with strong head wind which felt like we were cycling into a giant hairdryer. To-day we had our first puncture Chris mended it in 20 mins. At St. Nazaire we had problems finding the bridge across the Loire, took unwanted 5 mile detour eventually found bridge and what a BRIDGE, it had a hell of a hump and was the steepest we had ever seen. When we reached the summit of the bloody bridge we hit wind again and had to pedal down hill!! by now we both on our chin-straps. Headed for nearest hotel which of course was full. Went round corner found above hotel looked a real dive but room was really good.

The Meal

Walked 1.5 miles into town. This resort is obviously for the "lower deck" French still very interesting sitting outside the cafes having our largers watching the French on their Hols. Had a small rain shower. Found restaurant Les Buluga Prior to our meal we were both given a cooked Oyster gratinee Chris then had Moules Marinere, Sally had Pate du Maison, for the main course Sally had a Saumon steak with parsley type sauce and taglittelle, Chris had a steak with some pulse sauce and taglittelle/pommes frites we both had little bits of potatoes mashed and puree vegetables. To finish Sally had chocolate ice-cream and Chris fromage then coffee and digestif we then walked 1.5 miles back to our hotel and bed

DAY SIX

Thursday 22nd August 1991

St. Brevin les Pins to Hotel du Marche, Beauvoir-Sur-Mer.

Miles Travelled

ODO = 237.3

DST = 35.21

AVS = 5.8

TM = 5.56

MXS = 15

Said goodbye to that horrible bridge at St Nazaire, rode through St Brevin to major road, weather threatening overcast, had one small shower in town. Took main road to Pornic very windy which made ride very unpleasant traffic very heavy. Turned off into Pornic swapped inner tube on Chris's bike then rode along coast road much quieter to La Berherie-Sur-Retz. Stopped for Sausage and chips for Chris, Omelette and chips for Sally, then the rain started and boy did it RAIN!!!! Eventually eased off rode short distance to Bourgneuf-Sur-Retz, had a discussion on where to stay tonight weather seemed to be brightening up so rang ahead to Beauvoir to make a reservation. So off we set to Beauvoir 10 miles away across the Mara de Machecoul(a bloody big marsh) heavy rain started up again strong wind drove rain horizontally into us extremely unpleasant gert big rats around here one squashed on road every five feet or so!!! Arrived at hotel and dried out

The Meal

Chris started with Moules de Maison (moules cooked in very nice butter sauce) Sally had Jambon Vandee (local Ham) - very nice and tasty, this was followed by murle in a buerre sauce for Chris, Sally had Hake cooked in butter with almond sauce accompanied by steamed potatoes. To end Sally had deux boules of chocolate glace and Chris had fromage we both had coffee then off to bed.

DAY SEVEN

Friday 23rd August 1991

Beauvoir-Sur-Mer to Hotel du Golfe, Bourgeny.

Miles Travelled

ODO = 293

DST = 55.7

AVS = 7.0

TM = 7.0

MXS = 18

Started off across Marshes once more, dead flat roads wind still against us, as always. Getting fed up with the marshes so headed for Seaside, had a very pleasant ride along the coast stopped for lunch a little seaside port where we had a pizza. Good cycling weather had a really good ride decided to crack on past Les Sables-des-Olonne, to get a head start tomorrow on our way to La Rochelle for a rest day. Once again had problems finding a room eventually found Hotel du Golfe - bit posh. Sally and Chris fell OUT here! Sally had lost Chris's scholls - we had words. Went into village for meal(hotel far to expensive) after tour round attached holiday complex very illuminating. We rode the bikes unencumbered with our luggage - WOW, what a difference we really zipped along.

The Meal

Chris started with soup de poisson a huge bowl Sally had assiette de crudities, for the second course Chris had Moules marinere, Sally had Pate, the main course followed with Chris having thick slice of ham grilled with haricot beans Sally had Steak and chips both Chris and Sally finished with ice-cream. A very nice meal - Chris enjoyed it more than Sally!!!

DAY EIGHT

Saturday 24th August 1991

Bourgeny to Hotel St. Jean D'Arc La Rochelle.

Miles Travelled

ODO = 347.1

DST = 54.02

AVS = 6.4

TM = 8.25

MXS = 22

Cycled back up to main road, weather overcast in the morning, long straight and hilly. Road is very busy - decided to strike out across country which is much more pleasant getting hotter as day wears on we get to marshes again by midday road now dead straight and very flat getting very hot and uncomfortable with wind against us! Eventually turn south for last lag into La Rochelle wind now behind us we both feel better. As we leave the marshes for the last 10 miles into La Rochelle the temperature goes through the roof, both of us now on our chin-straps each hill now a trial by torture. Road signs give us wrong distance to go - very despondent. Find a sign (eventually) with correct distance on - still this seems one heck of a long 10 miles - where is La Rochelle? we ask ourselves ? eventually top a hill and "thar she blows" we are both really pleased, coast down through suburbs to the centre first three hotels full par for the course, find Jean D'Arc overlooking harbour entrance, nice room. Have a cool larger and go out for wander round town which is heaving with people

The Meal

Had a good look around Sally chose a very nice restaurant, as soon as we sat down it began to fill up, Chris started with soup de poisson with cheese croutons and hot paprika? sauce very good indeed, Sally had a crab salad, we both had Kir aperitif, for the main course Chris had crayfish casserole with rice and potato, Sally had cod in (parsley) sorrel sauce!! Chris then had fromage we both finished with ice-cream, went back to Hotel and raided fridge! Drank 1/2 bottle champagne/brandy/whisky (later two were miniatures!!) then to bed!!

N.B. Sally replaced Chris's scholls - brought him a new pair of sandals from a quaint old fashioned shoe shop
DAY NINE

Sunday 24th August 1991

La Rochelle.

Miles Travelled no mileage rest day

ODO = 293

DST = 55.7

AVS = 7.0

TM = 7.0

MXS = 18

Woke up felling a bit shaky!! REST day to-day hooray! We have cycled 109 miles in two days to get to La Rochelle, so feel we deserve a rest. Spent a very pleasant day, walking, eating, strolling, and just watching the rest of the world go by. Had a pizza for lunch which helped us feel better then we took a siesta, woke up and went for a cool larger. Booked ferry for tomorrow's trip to Ile D'Orleon anything to avoid trip across marshes

The Meal

Kir aperitif for two then soup de poisson for Chris - will he grow gills?? Sally had Assiettes de Crudities - OK but not brill. For the main course we both had steak, Chris had a green pepper, sauce Sally was plain, meal so-so have had better, then ice-cream and off to bed early start tomorrow.

DAY TEN

Monday 26th August 1991

La Rochelle to Auberge Normande, Ronce-Les-Baines

Miles Travelled

ODO = 386.01

DST = 21

AVS = 5.4

TM = 3.51

MXS = 23

Up early to catch ferry, so that we have an easy days cycling. Catch ferry to Ile D'Oreleon via Ile de rai and Ile de Aix where we had to swap to a different boat, had a 2 hour wait so, cycled around Island and had lunch after which caught ferry across to Ile D'Oreleon, getting very hot, difficult landing, very narrow jetty crammed with people none of whom would get out of the way, so we pushed our way through, we then found ourselves on a beach with no road in sight, extremely HARD, HOT, work pushing laden bikes through soft sand. Came eventually to road and cycled down to bridge easy bridge not too high just very hot! Around coast flat countryside to next bridge - a bit more of a hill Sally not too happy and winging about everything. Arrive in Ronce-Les-Baines, first hotel full, surprise, surprise, found little Auberge which had a room. Then we had our end of day largers, the thermometer in bar was reading 90F and this is 1730 when its starting to cool!!!

The Meal

We had the 68ff menu Chris started with plate of mixed sausage meats Sally had 1/2 dozen large prawns, to follow Chris had Moules marinere!! Sally had Ham of the mountains all very nice. For the main course we both had roast chicken in a cheese sauce - very, very good we then had cheese or what was left of the cheese after the Germans had got their hands on it, we finished meal off with ice-cream all washed down with a very nice rose - nicest meal so far.

Worth a return visit for the meal therefore gets one Carr *

DAY ELEVEN

Tuesday 27th August 1991

Ronce-Les-Baines to Hotel L'Arberet Vendays-Montalivet

Miles Travelled

ODO = 409.9

DST = 41.79

AVS = 6.1

TM = 6.43

MXS = 29

Early start made from Ronce pleasant ride through forest with a couple of nasty hills just what Sally loves first thing a nice hill to warm you up, her and her big mouth, still a good ride - took a detour, trying to be clever, at La Palmyre riding along beach all very nice, when suddenly we arrive in an army camp! Get back on road then soon after, find cycle track we were looking for which takes us through the coastal forest to Royan, ride through town and straight onto ferry not bad going, 1/2 hour crossing Gironde. Stopped for lunch soon after, getting very warm took cycle track from here along old German railway to Sonlac-Sur-Mer (from start of day to here we have been passing old German block houses and fortifications all part of the much vaunted Atlantic wall all very interesting - all now returning to nature) we had a nice sea breeze very good cycling from Sonlac the last few miles were through wooded countryside dead straight roads and getting very hot. Arrived in Vedays at 1530ish attractive hotel so decided to stop for the night.

The Meal

Aperitif to start, Chris had Pastis, Sally a Kir both of us started with soup de poisson (a first for Sally) Sally thought it was OK but did not taste very fishy accompanied with large crouton soaked in garlic oil. Second course Chris had Moules marinere yet again!! Sally had Assiette d'hors deuvers(very nice). Third course Chris had Oysters(x3) gratinee cooked in their own juice with garlic and onion, Sally had pate an enormous amount!! Fourth course Chris had gigot de muton with pommes frittes, Sally had Coq au rouge with pommes frittes and a green salad all excellent. Fifth course both Chris and Sally had a lovely creme caramel which ended the meal perfectly. All above washed down by a bottle and a half of Cote de Provence (a very nice rose) for digestif Chris had Calvados, Sally an Armangnac and coffee for two. The meal was the fixed price menu for 78ff.

This place gets two Carr **, well worth a return visit

DAY TWELVE

Wednesday 28th August 1991

Vendays-Montalivet to Hotel de la Plage, Lanton

Miles Travelled

ODO = 461.7

DST = 57.85

AVS = 7

TM = 7.14

MXS = 13

No hills to-day!! Started the day early after a very nice breakfast, could not finish all the bread or coffee, jam not so hot but then you cannot have everything!! On the road by 0845, very pleasant 30 miles across flat, but interesting wooded country (better than the blasted marshes!!) to Lacanau where we had lunch a very nice pizza, starting to warm up so girded up our loins for the last 15 miles or so across similar terrain, except less trees ergo less shade, now getting really hot. Arrived in Arres nothing there, everything seemed to be shut cycled on to Andernos-les-Bains same story - is it early closing. Unable to find a Hotel, 15 miles stretched to 27 miles!! passed a Pharmacy at 1544 hrs which was flashing 39c (102f) thats in the shade - damn hot. Turned off to Taussat which also appeared to be shut. Cycled on and found a pleasant Logis, nice room cool and airy looking forward to the bar opening and our meal

The Meal

Sally started with salad Nautilus - basically lots of different sea-food mixed with rice, served up like a prawn cocktail, Chris had seafood gratin, to follow we both had salmon in a brown butter sauce with rice and chips finished off with fromage for Chris and profiteroles stuffed with coffee ice-cream topped with cream and almonds for Sally, OK but all a bit ordinary. After dinner we went for a walk.

DAY THIRTEEN

Thursday 29th August 1991

Lanton to Hotel L'Atlantic/Taris, Mimizan

Miles Travelled

ODO = 511

DST = 48.07

AVS = 5?

TM = 9.30

MXS = 19

Had breakfast on the terrace nice and sunny, not too hot. By the time we leave (0945) after loading the bikes it became overcast still keeps it cool for cycling, arrived in Bianos, stopped to go to the Bank starting to rain we had done about 10 miles, it got quite heavy in places but not enough to put on our capes. Eventually got clear of clouds, Sun came out and it became very warm and sticky (high humidity to stay with us for the rest of the trip making nights especially unpleasant) countryside very pleasant flatish and wooded very enjoyable cycling!! The going improved getting hot and sunny with a breeze. Arrived in Mimizan much smaller than we had expected. NOTE in to-days travels we saw many English cars all Volvos is there a convention of Volvo owners in the area? most peculiar.

To-night we are staying demi-pension a first for us, also the Hotel has a pool - ahhhh what bliss!!!.

The Meal

Started off with sea-food gratin nice but small helpings, this was followed by roast chicken in a cheese sauce with stir fried vegetables very nice, we finished off with fromage (extremely small portions)

the meal tasted OK just minuscule helpings spoiled it. This is the first time we have left the table still feeling hungry - this hotel is all show and no substance very superficial - this hotel qualifies for no star, only the booby prize. We then went into town to get a decent dessert. We should have eaten out, we will not go demi-pension again!!!!

Day thirteen as far as Mimizan is concerned came true, a place we will avoid in the future!!!.

DAY FOURTEEN

Friday 30th August 1991

Mimizan to Hotel Le Biarritz, Biarritz

Miles Travelled to-day the cycle computer broke - Damn.

ODO = 575

DST = 65 approx.

AVS =

TM =

MXS =

Overnight Chris was eaten alive by mosquitoes- hardly touched Sally, we awoke at 0600 to sound of thunder (oh no) got up for an early breakfast 0720 and early start. Glad to shake the dust of Mimizan off our heels, NOT a place we would voluntary go back too! One mile outside the town and the heavens open so on go the capes, rain for the next ten miles countryside very pleasant green with moderate hills, nice ride, weather improving getting more hilly as we approach the Pyres, part of the ride is along a very pleasant cycleway avoiding the worst hills, we turned off the main road into Cape Breton where we have the nicest pizza of the trip. After meal we decide to head for Bayonne - slowish going (we both have that sluggish after meal feeling) as we approach Bayonne traffic becomes worse as it all funnels into one narrow stretch of land. One or two very nasty hills just prior to Bayonne. DISASTER in centre of Bayonne Cycle computer broke at 60 miles on clock, unable to fix. We cycle on another 5 miles at least into Biarritz, £5 a foot step and town is very cramped, cycle on through to the southerly outskirts where we find our hotel (an expensive one) went for a walk and find a traditional French hotel about 1/2 mile down road where we decide we will have our evening meal - our hotel is too expensive. To-night will be our last night in France, France is a comfortable known quantity, Spain is somehow different, unknown and slightly threatening, still all will be revealed on the morrow.

The Meal

We ate at the Hotel Milady overlooking the beach. Sally ate from the 95f menu du jour, Chris ate a la carte Sally commenced with a very nice asparagus tart (quiche), Chris had soup du poisson both very nice, for the main course Chris had fillet steak with Roquefort sauce pommes frittes and mixed vegetable, Sally had Salmon en papiotte with sliced boiled potatoes and a ramekin of minced spinach - all excellent all washed down with a bottle and a half of local (Basque) rose, Chris then had fromage, for sweet Sally had an apple tart with armangnac Chris had ice-cream three boulles vanilla, cassis and lemon sorbet, we finished the meal off with coffee (expresso) and very generous dollops of Armangnac for both of us.

Above restaurant well worth a return visit, therefore is awarded three Carr ***

DAY FIFTEEN

Saturday 31st 1991

Biarritz to Hotel Zarauz, Zarauz Spain.

Miles Travelled

ODO = 619.5

DST = 49.5

AVS = 8

TM = ?

MXS = 26

Left Biarritz weather overcast, pleasant riding conditions, heading for Spanish border. Hills and more hills Dr Kahane you were wrong it is NOT flat to the Spanish border!!! The final hill in France was long and hard 400 feet straight up (we arrived in France two weeks ago to be met by misty overcast weather, we crossed into Spain with the same weather).

What a difference a border makes, lovely houses on French side, Spanish side looks and smells like a slum - obviously the servants quarter for Biarritz. Initial impressions of Spain - its dirty, smelly and poor. We take the road to San Sebastian, going up one of the several mountains between the border and San Sebastian the heavens open - phew what a storm God certainly turned on the tap and just when we thought it could not get any worse he turned on the other tape plus the shower, we got soaked. In between the worst cloud bursts Chris fitted the new cycle computer he purchased in France. Weather improved after an hour, so off we jolly well went, lots of Spanish cyclists about did not think they went in for it, you live and learn. We arrived in San Sebastian, very swish town, so all of northern Spain is not polluted and ugly. We left San Sebastian behind and once again headed into the mountains, all the pleasant towns are on the coast with the connecting road going inland over the hills. Passed many Spanish company towns squeezed into the valleys pushing out horrible things into the air and rivers, in between the otherwise very beautiful Alpine type countryside. The last hill of the day was the worst a 9% gradient, Sally totally dis-chuffed, Chris encouraging and very, very supportive!! Arrived in Zarauz, found the one hotel, booked in and headed for bar for our end of day largers.

The Meal

Chris had chicken, chicken and even more chicken!! To start we both had clear chicken soup, Chris then had thicker chicken soup with vermicelli, Sally had assorted vegetables - mixed veg and boiled potatoes. The bread rolls were rock hard. The main course followed, which was chicken with chips and a pepper stuffed with mixed veg and mayonnaise. Asked if we would like wine, we of course replied in the affirmative, and expected wine list to appear, Oh no it did not we just got a bottle of Rioja plonked on the table. We ended the meal with cheese, a soapy old bit of mouse trap, this was quite the worse meal of the whole trip - not an auspicious start to our Spanish part of the holiday.

DAY SIXTEEN

Sunday 1st September 1991

Zarauz Hostel Zabalburu, Bilbao.

Miles Travelled

ODO = 683

DST = 63.2

AVS = 8

TM = 7.10

MXS = 27

We Left Zarauz, having made an early start followed coast for a few miles, very nice easy cycling, to Zumaia then, inland and uphill to Pictre 225 metres and hard climb. Down hill to Deba, through pleasant Alpine type countryside and awful Spanish towns then, another long, long slog up to 325 metres the highest point of the trip and a real bugger of a ride!!!! Then it was a gentle descent into Bilbao, through mountain meadows and every so often, those horrible industrial towns, eventually arrived in Bilbao, both exhausted, after walking round centre for an hour, found above hostel, really good room very palatial.

The Meal

Having wondered around for another hour found an authentic Spanish bar/restaurant. Ate a la carte advised by the waiter (don't take advice from Spanish waiters their tastes are very different from ours!!) on his recommendation we had asparagus salad followed by Fish fritters washed down by a passable bottle of Rose, for sweet we had ice-cream. Meal cost £15 reasonable. Though Chris would have preferred what everyone else had, not, what the waiter advised.

DAY EIGHTEEN

Tuesday 3rd September 1991

Laredo to Hostel Paris, Santander.

Miles Travelled

ODO = 753

DST = 34

AVS = 10

TM = 3.2

MXS = 47

Left Laredo weather overcast and chilly - went down a very nice hill good start to the day. First few miles easy going nice warming up period . After this it started to get hilly and warmer. Countryside very pretty, towns not as bad as they have been rivers still very smelly!! Traffic heavy and unpleasant all belting out oodles of fumes. After a days good ride arrived in Santander - END OF THE ROAD!! Santander did not look at all like its pictures in the Brittany ferries brochures, we cycled around until we found the place in the brochure - the nice part of town, found the Hostel which is a big rambling old place set in a sunny tree filled square all very Spanish, went and had a dreadful pizza then off to ice-cream parlour for pud.

The Meal

After looking around found a nice bar/restaurant. Chris started with Spanish ham Sally with assorted meats - we shared them between us, for the main course Chris had an extremely nice piece of roast lamb, Sally had tenderloin of beef also nice. The meal was washed down by an extremely nice bottle of white Rioja, finished off with ice-cream.

DAY NINETEEN

Wednesday 4th September 1991

Santander.

Miles Travelled

ODO = 753

DST = 0

AVS = 0

TM = 0

MXS = 0

No cycling to-day!! Spent an extremely pleasant day doing absolutely nothing at all! Caught a bus into town wandered around the centre window shopping, brought nothing - just looked. Took a boat trip round the harbour then walked back to the Hostel by a circuitous route and then had a siesta.

The Meal

We returned to the same place as last night Chris had the assorted cold meats, Sally had Garlic prawns - both very nice. Sally then had the roast lamb, Chris had a steak the meal was accompanied by a Rose Rioja, not very nice at all!. We then spent a couple of hours sat outside a cafe chatting, watching the world pass by, drinking coffee and enormous brandies a thoroughly lazy self indulgent day - we then staggered happily off to our bed.

DAY TWENTY

Thursday 5th September 1991

Santander to Ferry port to SS Bretange.

Miles Travelled

ODO = 763

DST = 10

AVS = 8

TM = 1.0

MXS = 26

Got up, cycled round the harbour to ferry port, watched all the vehicles come off the ferry, took ages! After a couple of hours we embarked. Bikes put into a special room all securely tied down. Wandered around boat being generally nosey. Then found cabin very nice with T.V. fridge with complementary drinks all very luxurious. As soon as we had cleared port went and purchased our duty free, we bought some champagne for later in the evening - to celebrate the end of our holiday. Then we had a siesta.

The Meal

Went to the restaurant and ate a' la carte Chris started with Foie de Gras, Sally had Salmon Charlotte very nice but a little too rich, we both wished that we had swapped - to late as all finished! The main course was Tornados for Chris and Turbot for Sally - both very nice, finished with Sally having tarte tartin warm apple tart with warm cream, Chris has coffee souffle ice-cream yum-yum. The meal was accompanied by a very nice Pouilly-Fume.

Retired to cabin after walk around the deck cracked open the poo and watched video Red October, finished with a nightcap, a couple of whiskeys, then Sleep.

DAY TWENTY-ONE

Friday 6th September 1991

Had breakfast in the cabin, sea a little choppier Bay of Biscay was like a mill pond. Now just the waiting for the Holiday to end - BIG SIGH.

Final thoughts, on reflection a super holiday from which we both got a real sense of achievement. If someone had said two years ago that we would spend a holiday cycling the length of France I would have said they were crazy, still, we have done it and it will be a trip we will not forget. Where to next year??