This is the journal of
Chris and Sally Carr's
journey by Tandem
Meandering
Along
the coast of
Brittany
~~~~~~~~~~
23rd August 1996
to
7th September 1996
DAY ONE
Friday 23rd August 1996
Home (Melksham) to St Malo
Miles Traveled
Start Mileage on Cycle Computer 1066 miles
ODO = 0 miles
MXS =
AVS =
DST = 0
TM =
Busy day making ready for the holiday - only just managed to fit all the chores in!! Locked up the house then over to Chris's father for a last cup of good strong English tea for two weeks. Then uneventful trip to Portsmouth, took back route around Salisbury thus missing the Bank Holiday Traffic Jams. Put car into secure parking and then straight onto boat. Nice cabin explore boat wave goodbye to blighty and go and have a nice meal.
The Meal
Both opted for the buffet menu - Hors d'ouveres as starters help one self from a goodly selection of meats, pates, smoked salmon etc. Chris followed with a rack of lamb was OK, Sally had Beef Bernaise(butter sauce) again OK. Then help ourselves from the buffet to a selection of cheese then sweets all washed down by a nice bottle of Bruielly, then back to cabin for a few end of day whisky's.
DAY TWO
Saturday 24th August 1996
St Malo to Erquy
Miles Travelled
ODO = 1108 miles
MXS = 28.5
AVS = 8.4
DST = 41.86
TM = 4hr 57min
Woken up by the alarm, shower breakfast then down to car deck load bike then off(all by 8 am) Uphill out of St Malo to the barrage over the Rance then down into Dinard continue along the coast all very, very pretty, enjoyable ride one brisk shower of rain other wise good weather. Not as hilly as we thought it would be, all in all, a pleasant days ride followed the D768 all day missing the two headlands St Cast and Frehel - just wanted to put some miles in. Stopped for lunch at Sables-d'or pleasant Edwardian seaside resort Chris had Moules et frite YUMMY, Sally had cocquelles St-Jaques on a warm salad also scrummy, very welcome stop both of us feeling extremely hungry. Back onto the tandem then over the hill to Erquy it all looks very familiar strong feeling of dejavue, when we got to the sea front both of us exclaimed "we've been here before" Look for a hotel first one too expensive and unfriendly, found nice quiet hotel in the centre of the town book in unload the bike the out for a very welcome end of day larger.
The Meal.
Had an aperitif of Kir Royal(which was our reward for a good days ride!!) served with smoked salmon in a piquant sauce. Sally had a lager portion of the same for her starter!! Chris had a small "fruit de mer" ½ a dozen langoustine and 4 oysters. Main course we both had a steamed fillet of fish with a butter sauce, sanfran, courgettes and carrots. Chris then had cheese so-so we both then had chocolate mousse with crème anglaise, all washed down with a nice bottle rose d'Anjou. Very nice meal, made even nicer by being undercharged!!!!
DAY THREE
Sunday 25th August 1996
Erquy to St Quay-Potrieux
Miles Travelled
ODO = 1149.4 miles
MXS = 29.7 mph
AVS = 8.7 mph
DST = 40.71 miles
TM = 4hr 38 min
Good nights sleep good breakfast then off we jolly well go by 9.40 am! Pleasant up and down ride along the major road, sunny weather but threatening rain. Then an oh nasty hill after Yffiniac, arrived St Brieuc(large town/city) and found it closed, real shame as we were getting very peckish, followed the signed route it was a very round about way to get out of the town we got to see a lot more of the town than we wished, however it did lead us to a steak house, must be used by French only no translation to English of the menu, we both had a very nice steak hach'e a' point(medium rare beef burger) and chips very nice. After a confusing time trying to find our route out to Plerin found it meant following a cycle route along what seems to be a motorway over a huge canyon. Most exciting cycling with cars whipping by at 70-100 mph!!! Definitely would not be allowed in England. Once over the bridge we leave the motorway and become lost. After much studying of map decide on a route and find Plerin, we follow the signed route again, wish I had followed my instincts as we go all around the houses to get back onto the road to Binic. After leaving Plerin get onto very pleasant cycle path which takes us through Pordic and into Binic, where the heavens opened! Shelter from initial downpour in a café start off again heavens re-open!! Shelter under a tree for 20 mins. or so. Sky's brighten up and its then a pleasant up and down ride(after orrible hill out of Binic) to our destination St Quay-Potrieux. Sun shinning so decide to try our luck at camping, try for nearest campsite at Bellevue a short ride out of town first impression is "oh dear" front of the campsite is not very pretty VERY off putting. However book in for the night, a man on a bike leads us to a terrace over looking the sea reserved for hikers and cycle tourists - too steep for caravans. So we get the best pitches on the site overlooking the bay simply beautiful. Happy with site we put up the tent and walk into town for our end of day largers and look for a restaurant for our evening meal.
The Meal.
Decided to go for cheap and cheerful meal, limited menu Sally opted for assiettes d'crudit'es (Hors d'oeuvres) Chris for assiettes du charcutier (cold meats) both enormous and excellent. To follow Chris had the inevitable moules marinere again excellent, Sally had fish of the day smoked haddock with creamy sauce very nice just a bit too much! Chris followed with fromage a wide choice. Very nice enjoyable meal the patron complemented us on our French, undeserved. Finished with two coffee's and two enormous digestif's Armagnac and Calavados!!! Totter our way home along the Cliff Path a happy couple.
DAY FOUR
Monday 26th August 1996
St Quay-Potrieux to Ile de Br'ehat
Miles Travelled
ODO = 1173.2 miles
MXS = 32.2 mph
AVS = 7.5 mph
DST = 23.75 miles
TM = 3hr 8min
Packed tent and off by 0940 eventually find our way to the main road, fairly busy but not too bad, ooh nasty hill into Plouha. Stop for a very welcome cold drink and buy more detailed maps. Re-join the main road again after the obligatory detour around the town, up and down to Plouezec then a long ascent up and long decent into Paimpol, very pretty fishing port stop for welcome lunch, then along a very up and down road to Pointe de l'Arcoueste. Embark on a ferry to the Ile de Br'ehat with the aid of the Tourist office lady, no bikes are allowed on the ferry after 10am, since we were going to camp on island an exception was made. Normal fun and games getting Tandem on and off the Ferry - brute force and ignorance wins the day! Find the campsite a little bit gritty however will have to do Hotels are VERY expensive and this is the only campsite on the Island, book for two nights, go for a scout around the town for an end of day larger and for somewhere to eat tonight, then back to tent wash smalls and relax.
The Meal.
The place we had picked for our evening meal was not open, so have another shufty at other restaurants, decide to go for the menu we most liked, which hoorah was also the cheapest a good choice Chris started with ½ dozen oysters very nice, Sally had assiettes d' crudities also very nice, to follow Sally had the fish dorade with tomatoes and curry sauce accompanied by rice and a few mussels Chris had fish of the day in a light curry sauce. To finish Chris had a couple of slices of very nice cheese. Sally had a tarte au pomme also very nice. All washed down with a couple of jugs of the house dry white wine. A very nice meal worth a return. After the meal walked back to the tent via the coast absolutely breath taking, sat outside the tent with a couple of glasses of whisky enjoying the view across the moonlit bay. A very enjoyable day.
DAY FIVE
Tuesday 27th August 1996
Ile de Br'ehat(tour of island)
Miles Travelled
ODO = 1183 miles
MXS = 15.7 mph
AVS = 5 mph
DST = 9.91 miles
TM = 1hr 56min
Horrendous rain storms overnight which did not bode well for the forthcoming day, however the weather behaved itself, cloudy in the morning and improving as the day wore on!! Island is 1 1/2 by 3 1/2 miles we did 9 1/2 miles touring it. Went into Le Bourg(main and only town on the island) first thing in the morning which set the tone for the day - Star trek came to mind BEWARE THE BORG!!! Had petite dejeuner, very welcome then bought ourselves a picnic in the 8-8 shop was closed for lunch 12 to 2 very French!! The transport allowed on the island is either tractors or bicycles so had a delightful half a day touring the island. Found a delightful cove for the picnic lunch we enjoyed a bottle of wine and lots of French goodies. What we did not enjoy was an ever increasing band of seagulls, very reminiscent of Hitchcocks the Birds!! Rocks even when armchair shaped are not soft on the bottom, so after a couple of hours we head back to camp site and collect our thermarest chairs and head down to a bay near the campsite to watch the tide come in. Then returned to camp site to shower before dinner .
The Meal.
Went to the same place as the previous night. Chris had half a dozen oysters, Sally had a assiette de crudities. Chris followed this with moules and frites, Sally had salmon in a curry sauce, Chris then had fromage, Sally had ice-cream. Nice but not as nice the previous night's meal. Walked back to campsite site and so to bed by 9.15 PM!!
DAY SIX
Wednesday 28th August 1996
Ile de Br'ehat to Porz-Hir
Miles Travelled
ODO = 1216.7 miles
MXS = 33.4 mph
AVS = 8.7 mph
DST = 33.62 miles
TM = 3hr 51min
Up and at them! Pack, then down to the port to catch the 10 AM ferry to Pointe de L'Arcoueste. Off the ferry and UP THE HILL! Try to cut across the headland but end up in Paimpol, eventually find the right road we want, then had horrendous climb out of the town. Then down to Lezardrieux then again another horrible climb out!, fairly up and down right to L'Amour both feeling down, but after a welcome crepe spirits pick up, we then had a pleasant ride to Treguier via Kerbors. Up into the centre of the town to buy postcards, then down out of the town. Long, long hill up to Plouguiel then thankfully not to bad a ride to Pleougrescant not a lot here so head for the campsite and hotel. Take one look at campsite and think perhaps not! Book into very typically French looking hotel, we then had our end of day lager, shower and wash our smalls we then went out for a walk, came back and had a snooze until dinner.
The Meal.
Aperitif - both had kir's, very nice. Chris started with moules, Sally had smoked salmon with toast (warm white bread). To follow Chris had filet of Julienne (thick strip of firm white fish) served with potatoes and rice, Sally had escalope of veal and chips - all very nice. For dessert Chris had creme caramel and Sally had far breton (regional pudding with prunes) Sally only ate a little!! All washed down with a nice house red wine coffee and digestifs and then off to bed.
DAY SEVEN
Thursday 29th August 1996
Porz-Hir to Ile Grande
Miles Travelled
ODO = 1248.6 miles
MXS = 26.5 mph
AVS = 8.8 mph
DST = 31.81 miles
TM = 3hr 36min
Good night's sleep, very good breakfast - very French drinking from bowls as much as one wanted! Then it's off by 10 am we followed the coast all day a couple of nasty hills at first then a pleasant ride to Perros-Guirce where we had lunch - a couple of galette's. We are now travelling along the Cote de Granit Rose, very spectacular hear a bang on a hill and find two broken spokes at the end of the day, DAMN! Carry onto the Ile Grande do a quick tour of the Island find pleasant campsite - hire a cabin for the night. Go to shops and see three tandems! One French couple who we pass, then we meet up with two English tandems we stop and have a chat. Back to the cabin write our postcards and whilst enjoying a glass of wine.
The Meal
Walked down to the restaurant, Chris had "so-so" soupe du poisson(fish soup) Sally had a mixed salad to start with, to follow Chris had breton sausage and chips all very ordinary! Sally had lamb chops and chips again OK but ordinary! For sweet Chris had some horrible cheese and Sally had some creme caramel very poor meal return to campsite and had a good night's sleep!
DAY EIGHT
Friday 30th August 1996
Ile Grande to Ploumanach
Miles Travelled
ODO = 1279.1 miles
MXS = 28.1 mph
AVS = 8.2 mph
DST = 30.58 miles
TM = 3hr 41min
Got up, pack the bike and set off to look for a bicycle shop to fix our broken spokes. Went up the most horrendous hill to Pleumeur-Bodo. Found a cycle shop, very surly proprietor had no interest in mending our bike, he told us to return that evening. So decided to carry on to the next large town Lannion after asking at a garage, got rough directions to Peugeot cycle shop, Amazingly we found it, very good shop we used our spare spokes which unfortunately did not fit - too big, so they shortened and rethread them, then put the spokes back on the wheel, all cost about £4, excellent value and service! Returned to the centre of town and had a very nice crepe for lunch, decide to head back along the coast unfortunately take the wrong road out of Lannion, going in completely wrong direction. Managed to correct ourselves by going back through Pleumeur-Bodou involving a very long hill climb once again!! Now cycling back along the route we came along, the Sun is shining and the winds on our back, hill's don't seem as steep much nicer going this way! Just before the big hill into Perros-Guirec we stop at a four-star family campsite, very plush full of English people, decide to cycle into town for our evening meal, after putting up the tent we have a shower, wash our smalls, go for our end of day largers. Buy a bottle of wine in the campsite shop go back to our pitch, which is huge we look very small on it, very pleasant overlooking the sea, sit down and enjoy our wine while watching the antics of our fellow Brits.
The Meal
We both had an aperitif to start with, Sally had a Kir Chris had Ricard. Chris started with a good soupe de poisson, Sally had a Roquefort cheese and walnut salad. For the main course Chris, felt like having meat so had a very nice steak a' point(medium rare) Sally had fish (similar to cod) in a courgette sauce with lightly roasted potatoes and rice - all very nice. Chris followed with a very nice cheese board and Sally two balls of ice-cream. Cycled back to campsite in the dark, disco was going full belt, so sat on rock by the tent overlooking the bay, watching the Moon come up, demolish a bottle of whisky, mused on the meaning of life, had an argument and went to bed.
DAY NINE
Saturday 31st August 1996
Ploumanach to Binic
Miles Travelled
ODO = 1330.7 miles
MXS = 31.3 mph
AVS = 10.3 mph
DST = 51.53 miles
TM = 4hr 57min
Both feeling a little fragile so had coffee and orange juice at the campsite café to buck ourselves up a Little.
decided to see what the interior of the region looked like. So headed inland towards Guingamp the dreaded hill turned into a pussycat! Stopped in Perros-Guirec to buy bananas then headed out of town up a long, long hill eventually it plateau'ed out and we enjoy a fast ride (for us!). Stop for lunch at Pommerit-Jaudy tried previous town no joy it was closed had our normal crepes for lunch. Continue on our journey to Guingamp feeling good so decided to continue on to Plouagat/Chatelaudren(historical town)where we had hoped to find a hotel NOTHING! So it's out with the map and decide to head for the coast, find a sign that says hotel we do not like the look of it so continue onto Binic at least the Sun is shining this time, find a pleasant hotel and that is us for the day!
The Meal
We went to the restaurant next to the hotel, it looked so typically French. Probable would have done better if we had stayed in the hotel. Chris had a "mad woman" staring at him all through dinner - a little off putting to say the least!! Chris started with eight oysters OK but not best quality ones, Sally had a whole crab with mayonnaise she eat as much she wanted to, restaurant staff wanted Sally to demolish the crab! Heard laughter in the kitchen when the dish was returned. For the main course Chris had fish in a butter sauce with rice, carrots and boiled potatoes nice but so-so, Sally had steak and chips again was OK, but not exceptional. This was followed by cheese and for desert Chris had chocolate mousse so-so in quality Sally had Ile Flotant this again was so-so it had been hanging around for a while! All washed down with a nice bottle of rose. Had very pleasant promenade around the harbour, back to the hotel and bed. Klaxon went off at 2.30 am Sally thought it was an earthquake Chris thought it was World War III! Get back to sleep but extremely noisy town woken by the Church bells, oh the bells the bells(at 7am).
DAY TEN
Sunday 1st September 1996
Binic to Plurien
Miles Travelled
ODO = 1364.0 miles
MXS = 28.8 mph
AVS = 8.5 mph
DST = 33.33 miles
TM = 3hr 54min
Got up have breakfast and off by 10am - decide to take quite cycle route out of town - this involved an incredibly steep hill, but once on top had a pleasant ride to Plerin. Then across a large gorge on the way to St Briec, had a pleasant ride through this large town to Cesson then another very steep hill up to La Cage. Another nice downhill and ride across the bay to Yffinic, slight trouble negotiating a crossroads. Chris and Sally had words!!! Quiet ride for the next few miles - not talking! Kiss and forgive in Hillion. No restaurant in sight so decided to have a picnic although only a small village able to get very good selection of meat, cheese, bread, wine, and cakes! Sit on a wall to enjoy our repast much to the amusement of the natives who passing in their cars wish us "bon appetite".
After lunch along series of up and down hills to St Alban dead straight roads do not help! We both find the going hard especially after having had a very good lunch. Once passed La Ville Roy the going gets better all down hill to hotel at Pleurien, nice converted farmhouse have end of day lagers after what feels like a long hard day.
The Meal
Cycle down hill to Sable d'or le Pante for a meal. Had the look at the various restaurants and decided to have a meal at the restaurant where we had lunch on the first day of our hols. Decide it's just about nice enough to eat outside, having perused the menu we plumped for the 165 franc menu - the most expensive!!! Start with an aperitif Sally had her normal Kir and Chris had a Ricard very nice. For the first course Chris had nine oysters very good, Sally had coquilles St. Jacques salad - also very good for the main course both of us had salmon and turbot in a butter sauce with boiled potatoes, carrots, leaks and courgettes, beautiful, light and well balanced meal tres, tres, tres bon!! Then we both had fromage, for sweet we both had coupe de colonel (good lemon sorbet with a very generous dollop of vodka). Cycle back up the hill went to bed with a cognac and watch Jaques Bruel on TV, nice end to the evening.
DAY ELEVEN
Monday 2nd September 1996
Plurien to La Fourberie
Miles Travelled
ODO = 1402.7 miles
MXS = 30.4 mph
AVS = 9.1 mph
DST = 35.54 miles
TM = 3hr 52min
Got up and had breakfast, paid the bill and got a shock as the bill was 300 francs rather than the 200 francs advertised, still it was an enjoyable stay and we both had a relaxing time. Down the hill into Sables d'or and then a long hard hill out of the town which was followed by another three long down and three long uphills. Then long slow climb to Cape Frehel wondered around the lighthouse - very fascinating! Cycle back through Ple'venon here we discovered another spoke broken - DAMN!! Cycle down to Port a' la Duc, the spokes were making such a noise that Chris tightened them, up hoping (fingers crossed)that this would correct the problem. Long hard grind to Matignon, went to tourist office and they said there was a bicycle shop in the town, went to the shop however it was closed for the day so decided to eat, found all the restaurants closed. Short on money so go to the bank to get money on "les plastic" message with both cards "refer to you bank"!! Does not seem to be our day, getting a little low! Go around the corner to another bank, card works hurrah! We now have money, continue onwards, hilly though copeable! After a few miles we get to L'Hopital where we stop at a very French looking restaurant for lunch. We go in for a snack and come out having had a four course meal with wine. Chris started with coq du poisson Provencale (clams shell with fishy bits/cheese/courgettes) all very nice, Sally had salad composte (egg, tomatoes, tuna, sweetcorn, and rice) also very nice. For the main course Chris had Bretton sausage with twirly pasta and cheese shavings - just hit the spot! Sally had Coeur de Jambon - thick slice of ham which was Pan fried in a cider sauce accompanied by the same as Chris. This was followed by fromage of which one was allowed to help oneself to as many times as one wanted. For desert both had the mousse au chocolat all washed down with a very nice rose, a wonderful meal!! Although the meal sounds a lot it was very nicely balanced and did not leave one feeling bloated. We continue our way on through Le Guildo onto Tregon to Pleoubalay - although a pleasant ride there seems to be more hill than when we came out. Headed on down to the coast at Lancieux, a couple of miles before this we were passed by another tandem they left us after we crossed the river going into St-Briac-sur-le-mer, more ups and downs until we arrived at the campsite. Which has improved a lot since our last stay hurrah(five years ago) also, our restaurant of many years ago is still there lets hope it lives up to our expectations!
The Meal
The restaurant looked the same as before in and out, after an initial misunderstanding by Chris, we commenced with kir(Sally)and Ricard(Chris) to start with Sally had Petoncles, with garlic, parsley, and shallot, Chris had muscles cooked in the same way, both delicious. Sally then had a Bretton trout, Chris had sole meuniere also very nice Chris followed this with fromage and then chocolat mousse, Sally had home-made ice-cream with a vein of meringue and a strawberry coulis, BLISS!! Burped our way back to campsite finished off with a couple of drinks under the stars and then to bed. Did the restaurant live up to our expectations? A VERY BIG OUI.!!!
DAY TWELVE
Tuesday 3rd September 1996
La Fourberie to Dinan
Miles Travelled
ODO = 1422.1 miles
MXS = 26.6 mph
AVS = 8.9 mph
DST = 19.43 miles
TM = 2hr 10min
Woke up, Chris not feeling too well so decided on a short day, went to campsite bar for "petit dejeuner" then packed tent had a long chat with a fellow camper who thought we were marvellous!! Left campsite at about 1015 am. Nice gentle run no big ups or downs to La Vicomte-sur-Rance. The followed the cycle path along the river into Dinan up a long horrible cobbled street, extremely steep push the tandem to the top. Went to the office de tourism to get info on hotels, plump for the cheapest L'Ocean which is by the railway station basic but good value. Dump luggage lock the bike (just starting to rain) went into town sun now shining! Decide to have a pizza for lunch, the menu du jour was good value opt for that, we have a pizza, sweet, wine and coffee for 54 francs and very nice it was too. Walk around town to wear off our lunch then take the petite train to give us the full view of the Town meet the man from the campsite this morning stop and have a chat with him. Return to the hotel, shower, change and wash our smalls, then out for dinner. We both feel like RED MEAT tonight.
The Meal
We walked around the town looking for a good restaurant with reasonable prices. Walked down to "La port" BIG mistake restaurants here are very expensive so long, hard walk up the hill again! Go to the restaurant we looked at first. Chris started with soup de poisson, Sally had assiette de crudities(soup ok, crudities so-so) this was followed by Entrecote of steak(a' point) with carrots, beans and wedgie potatoes followed by a slightly tired creme caramel all washed down by a bottle of house wine. Meal just about OK, but it suited our mood at the time, walk back through the town VERY quiet - back to hotel read our books and so to bed.
DAY THIRTEEN
Wednesday 4th September 1996
Dinan to Mont-St-Michel
Miles Travelled
ODO = 1464.4 miles
MXS = 31.4 mph
AVS = 9.4 mph
DST = 42.28 miles
TM = 4hr 27min
Woke up after a really good night's sleep, Chris feeling much better, have breakfast and a very nice one it was to! Then head out of town by 1015 am leave town via the high bridge to avoid losing height. Plenty of ups and downs but no real "oh nasties". Countryside starts to change becoming much more Normandy like. Stop in Dol-de-Bretange for lunch, had a very welcome omelette and chips. Head of to St. Broladre getting much flatter on the lookout for the "Mont" after some long boring stretches we reach Pontorson, then another long stretch of road to the Abby. The later part of the day was made very tiresome by strong headwinds. Find a motel and book into chalet in the grounds. unload the bike and head down to L'Abbaye for our end of day largers, do a quick tour of the Mont then back to Baeuvoir for another drink and write up the journal.
The meal
We decided to go for the 108 frank meal, had our courtesy kir Normandy was OK but only drank it because it was free! Chris started with smoked ham of the region (Jambon fume) Sally had Brochette St, Jacque(kebab of fish), for the main course Chris had Boeuf Bourguignonne an enormous helping served in a separate bowl with lots of pommes frites all very tasty. Sally had lamb chops (cotelette d'Agneau) with pommes frites and haricot beans! We both had fromage very nice, for desert Chris had creme caramel and Sally had Ile flottante was OK but not exceptional all washed down with a nice bottle of Gamay. Then to bed and read our books.
DAY FOURTEEN
Thursday 5th September 1996
Mont-St-Michel to Avranches to Mont-St-Michel
Miles Travelled
ODO = 1498 miles
MXS = 25.2 mph
AVS = 10 mph
DST = 34.29 miles
TM = 3hrs 24min
Got up had breakfast, then off sans luggage by 10am, we had a strong head wind as per norm!! Nice flatish ride until just outside Pontaubault were there was a steep hill a VERY confusing road junction did not help, again a pleasant flatish ride from here until a "gert big hill" up to Avranches. Disappointed in the town not a lot to it, we could not find a nice place to eat so followed signs to hypermarket, down steep hill out of town to St-Jean-de-la-Haize where we had pleasant lunch in the hypermarket cafe. Follow signs out of here to Mont-St-Michel, check map as we seem to be on a motorway! We cycled like bill-e-o for a couple of miles until we reach quieter and MUCH more pleasant roads, quiet ride through Le Val St. Pere very nice gentle countryside to Portabault. Cross the bridge turn right onto the coastal road up another ooh nasty hill(not as bad as the last time we were here, a few years ago, when it was OH, OH nasty(we must have improved!!)). Very pleasant ride along the bay with the added joy of passing two other cyclists somewhat tempered by the fact they were both about 88!! Shortly after this we stopped and awarded ourselves with a well earned larger, then carried on until we reach the main road, only 5 miles to home so put our heads down an go for it, reach a max of 25mph, we don't drop beneath 20mph. Arrived back at campsite and have another couple largers. Then settle down in the sun to read and drink a nice bottle of wine. All in all a very nice day.
The meal
We sat outside on the terrace and opted for the a' la carte menu, Chris started with the fish soup - very nice too. Sally had assiette d'crudit'es also very nice(a huge amount)! To follow Chris had moules and frites(common but oh so nice) Sally had Entrecote steak and chips very, very nice, Chris then had cheese followed by dessert, Chris then had chocolat roulade with crème caramel, Sally had ice-cream chocolate/vanilla, the meal was very pleasant and afterwards we went for a walk to see Mont-St-Michel in the moonlight - took some lovely photographs, return to our chalet for a few drinks, read books and watch CNN.
DAY FIFTEEN
Friday 6th September 1996
Mont-St-Michel to St. Malo
Miles Travelled
ODO = 1538 miles
MXS = 24.6 mph
AVS = 11.8 mph
DST = 40.17 miles
TM = 3hrs 22min
Got up had breakfast packed the bike check tyres etc. Wheel bike to reception to hand in the key and we get a puncture whipped the wheel of and swapped with a spare tube and tyre, on the road by 10:20am up to Pontorson then followed the bay around - long and straight to start with then up and down from Roz to St. Broladare then straight flat road all round the bay - a nasty little hill out of the bay to Les Portes where we turned to Cancale, since we had made such good time decided to have lunch here, walked up and down the quay until we selected our restaurant for lunch.
The meal
Chris started with nine huitres(oysters) best of the trip - very nice, Sally had seashells farcie oysters, mussels, petronels and cockles which Sally gave to Chris! Again were delicious and very good, for the main course Chris had mussels in white wine very nice, Sally had salted cod with cocquelles in a light white wine sauce with boiled potatoes courgettes and carrots, Chris then had fromage - really nice cheese, Sally had Ile Flotant the best of the trip! All washed down with a half bottle of Taval rose, the restaurant overlooked the harbour at Cancale, we sat in the Sun having lunch, which was well worth the detour. Back on the bike after lunch and as normal a Oh Oh nasty hill out of town. Then a pleasant run to St. Malo via St Coulomb up and down all the way BUT wow was it hot!! Reach St. Malo about 3pm, find hotel, shower, then wander around the town buy a few pressies etc. walk around the ramparts wonder up and down choosing a restaurant for tonight.
The meal
Chris started with soup de poisson a little watery and no roue, Sally had Petronelles farcie was OK but no great shakes! Then Chris had crunchy calamris(it was not crunchy) Sally had monkfish and herb sauce served on top of tagglitely - fish a bit stingy, Chris then had cheese very very good, followed by creme caramel for Sally, Chris had a creme brulee both nice, but overall a mediocre meal, wandered around the town found a bar had a couple of Armagnac and Calavados then to bed.
DAY SIXTEEN
Saturday 7th September 1996
St. Malo to Boat
ODO = 1539 miles
DST = 1 mile
Total Mileage for the Holiday = 473 miles
Average per day = 33.78 Miles
Got up and had breakfast, packed our bags and cycle the mile to the ferry. Three tandems on the boat nearly out number the solos for once!! Met a couple who have an Ibis from Pete Bird VERY envious of our Swallow, and so ends our enjoyable sojourn in Brittany.